Clocking in at roughly 240 hours over six weeks, Craig’s customized Avoca is a masterclass in structural optimization.
By pairing 4mm Okoume plywood with high-strength S-Glass, System Three Silver Tip epoxy, peel-ply finishing, and clever quick-rigging rubber lashings, he created a heavy-duty 55-pound vessel capable of supporting a 280-pound payload without sacrificing aesthetic appeal.
While Craig purposely overbuilt his outrigger for remote, rocky shorelines, his detailed building tips—ranging from stainless safety wire removal to custom flush deck hatches—offer an invaluable blueprint for both first-time stitch-and-glue builders and seasoned backcountry paddlers. Thanks for your article Craig!
Would be builders read on...
"I was drawn to the Avoca for ALL the same reasons Aaron designed her. A cost effective, very capable OC1 that would be fun and easy to build, and beautiful on the water. My goal was a stable backcountry camping platform for extended trips, first being Yellowstone.
Avoca is truly form and function, it surpassed my needs and expectations with flying colors.
Plans are very straight forward, easy to follow and every page provides 1 satisfying day of construction. For those with no previous stitch-n-glue boat building experience, FEAR NOT! Follow in the wake of Legendary Giants like John Lockwood of Pygmy and John Harris of Chesapeake Light Craft.
Both decades ago provided incredible detailed step by step building videos available on YouTube.
I chose Okoume plywood purchased locally (Seatle Washington) so I could select the prettiest sheets. 3mm was not available in my area so went with 4mm. This added additional strength, but final weight climbed to 55 lbs.
S-Glass fiberglass cloth was used over standard E-glass, its lighter, higher impact strength and easier to form around corners. It is the go-to fabric for composite experimental aircraft. (#4533 S-Glass 5.8 oz./yard)
Peel-ply, a 2.7oz. Dacron cloth is treated to release from cured epoxy and was applied over all epoxy wetted fiberglass. This provides a seamless transition and virtually eliminates having to sand "meat-hook" edges smooth. It is applied extending onto surface panels about +1" to 2", leaving tail ends not wetted out. This provides an edge to pull it off AFTER resin is FULLY CURED. Aircraft Spruce and Specialty have the best prices and ship worldwide.
I chose System Three Silver Tip Epoxy over polyester or vinyl ester resins. Slow hardener for no rushing! Epoxy adds additional cost to the project BUT provides MUCH increased strength and impact resistance. It also has Great UV blocking additives and is a diamond clear resin that really enhances the wood grain.
I don't apply any urethane coatings; just 4 coats of epoxy, light sanding between each coat. First 2 coats are brushed on, last 2 coats are rolled on with foam rollers.
Several Pygmy and a couple of CLC kayaks built +15 years ago; plus a few sailboat repairs, all still look good. This after many harsh trips over the years around British Columbia's north-west Pacific coast.
Extra reinforcement...
1 layer of fiberglass was applied over each panel doubler (butt block) only on the inside, extended 1-2 inches onto panels.
Doubler cloth plies were extended onto bottom of oak stringers (gunwales) and onto floor panel 1-2 inches.
The glass plies over FOR/AFT floor doublers were overlapped or 2-ply mid-ship where you step.
They were also extended up onto side panels 1-2 inches, this is in addition to 1-ply tape over radius seams.
This provides significant torsional strength to the open cockpit, especially when fully loaded. For Yellowstone me and 1 week of camping gear was 280 lbs.
1 layer of fibreglass was applied over top of each stringer/gunwale and tied 1" onto inside and outside of panels. This protects and strengthens them from roof rack rash and general use.
In addition to the external glass tape over bow and stern . . . total 2 layers over bow, plus 1 layer of 3" wide was applied over generous wood flour radius to inside bow and stern after clamping for cure. This reinforces bow and stern panels for rocky beach landings and a 3/8" hole for lifting and safety lines.
Rather than trim "green" fiberglass on bottom of canoe and outrigger I do a slightly different technique...
Trim line is marked with masking tape, cloth is positioned and just bottom panel cloth is wetted out. Then cloth draping down sides is trimmed dry, then wetted out and finally peel-ply is applied. This eliminates disturbing uncured cloth/resin and cutting or scoring into wood panels.
Where oak aka supports are glued to top of gunwales, 1-ply fiberglass tape was applied on both sides of each. I'm fearful of relying on a just a glued joint for highly loaded areas and a little fiberglass adds a lot of strength.
1 layer of fiberglass was applied to inside floor panel where mast step will be bonded.
Ply extends into radius where sides meet bottom panel, extends 3" forward and aft of mast step. So future mast won't be riding directly on wood panel...there will be a thin rubber pad glued on bottom of mast.
For stitching the panels, I use very thin SS safety wire that is removed after panels are glued. Wire is cut and then locally heated with a soldering iron and then it easily pulls out with pliers. Holes are filled in subsequent steps, removes any risk of long-term corrosion within panels. A trick from John Lockwood and his videos from Pygmy Boats.
Last few kayaks I've built with flush strapless hatches, wanted them on the Avoca.
Plywood "dog bones" are glued and glassed (4-ply each side) onto side panels and underside of hatches.
1/4" bungee cords secure hatches on the inside. Hatches are cut from deck panels, so deck grain is continuous. A plywood ring is added to account for foam hatch seal thickness and one as supporting joggle.
1 layer of fibreglass is applied to underside of both hatches to stiffen up the thin panels, then dog bones glued and glassed in.
Outrigger inspection hatch is similar but without spacer ring, a very thin neoprene seal was used. Captured fiber lock nuts were bonded underside of flange and hatch is secured by 4 SS screws.
Akas were built from 2"x2" (1.5"x1.5") Doug fir sealed with epoxy resin, I couldn't find right diameter or straight bamboo lol!
She needed to be able to be rigged and unrigged quickly for loading on a roof rack, rope was not an option.
I found prior to quick snap together akas many Molokai 50 race boats were secured with strips of rubber inner tubes. All 6 anchor points are wrapped 6 times under slight tension and last wrap tucked under previous.
I can rig or unrig my Avoca in less than 10 minutes.
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Project took 6 weeks or about 240 hours and cost about $1,000 US.
I'm retired, don't work at a frantic pace anymore and enjoyed each step to its fullest. Also, she was purposely overbuilt to get me safely into very remote places, more trips to come!
Average builder will not likely need to go overboard for a great safe weekend fun boat.
I'd expect the average first-time builder it would take a little longer if their working full time on it. The cost could easily be cut down several hundred dollars using E-glass, polyester resin and no peel-ply.
Molded plastic hatches and a kickup rudder would make it awash.
I base this on +35 years of professionally building high-performance composite experimental aircraft. As well as several boats, cars, bicycles and other odd things.
Thanks for a great experience and an incredible boat!!
